Amour for amaro

The Alchemist’s tasting panel revels in the complexities of made-in-B.C. amaros, vermouths and aperitifs

The lineup (l to r): Long Table Distillery’s Linnaeus Amaro No. 1, de Vine’s Moderna Vermouth, The Woods Spirit Co’s Pacific Northwest Amaro, Goodrich and Williams’ Bitterhouse Rubato, Bitterhouse DaMan and Bitterhouse LaDame aperitifs, Legend Distilling’s Naramaro amaro, Odd Society’s Mia Amata amaro and Bittersweet Vermouth. Dan Toulgoet photo

Consider them the supporting actors of the cocktail world: complex, helpful and a little bitter. Vermouths, aperitifs and amaros are typically fortified wines—though some are sweet enough to be considered liqueurs—flavoured with botanicals such as citrus peel, spices, roots and herbs. They typically have a somewhat bitter profile, hence the name “amaro,” which means bitter in Italian.

It takes a sophisticated palate to appreciate a good bitter drink, so not too surprisingly, Vancouver bartenders were eager to sample the best of B.C. amaros. We sat down with Alex Black of Tableau Bar Bistro, Amber Bruce of The Keefer Bar, cocktail consultant Sabrine Dhaliwal, Robyn Gray of the Rosewood Hotel Georgia and The Botanist’s Jeff Savage to get at the bitter truth.

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Long Table Distillery

Gin is at the heart of Long Table, with London dry-style, cucumber and barrel-aged varieties fuelling its many awards. This downtown Vancouver distillery also produces vodka, as well as seasonal liqueurs.

1451 Hornby St., Vancouver
604-266-0177
LongTableDistillery.com

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PRODUCTS:

• London Dry Gin
• Cucumber Gin
• Barrel Aged Gin
• Texada Vodka
• Långbord Akvavit
• Barrel-aged Akvavit
• Amaro No. 1 – Linnaeus
• Tradizionale Limoncello
• Curacao Orange Liqueur
• Absinthe


TASTING NOTES:


Cucumber Gin

FRAGRANCE: Neutral, slight cucumber notes.
FLAVOUR: Cucumber, coriander, citrus.
FEEL: Nice mouthfeel, fruity.
FINISH: Dry and savoury.
BEST ENJOYED: In a G&T.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Local gin for those Hendrick’s lovers. —Shaun Layton, April 2016


London Dry Gin

FRAGRANCE: Juniper, lemon peel, lavender.
FLAVOUR: Alpine notes, juniper heavy, bitter lemon.
FEEL: Thin mouthfeel.
FINISH: Great coriander, and black pepper finish.
BEST ENJOYED: Classic cocktails (Martini, Martinez, Hanky Panky).
THE BOTTOM LINE: The best B.C. London Dry on the market. —Shaun Layton, July 2016


Långbord Akvavit

FRAGRANCE: Caraway! Anise, citrus.
FLAVOUR: More spices, fennel. 
FEEL: Light up front, lots of back palate.
FINISH: Clean with lingering spices.
BEST ENJOYED: From the freezer, neat. Sub for gin – especially in a Corpse Reviver No. 2!
THE BOTTOM LINE: A cool alternative to gin. Very well made spirit. —Josh Pape, October 2016


Small Batch Limoncello

FRAGRANCE: Sweet lemon citrus.
FLAVOUR: Full and rounded lemon flavor.  
FEEL: Viscous and coating.
FINISH: Warm lasting ripe lemon.
BEST ENJOYED: In a Lemon Drop (vodka, limoncello, lemon juice).
THE BOTTOM LINE: Very clean, not too sweet, genuine natural lemon flavors. —Robyn Gray, February 2017


Amaro No. 1 — Linnaeus

FRAGRANCE: Pretty. Candied orange and potpourri.
FLAVOUR: Gentian, grapefruit zest, violet.
FEEL: Lean, dry, tannic.
FINISH: Bitter, perfumed. Expands.
BEST ENJOYED: As a replacement for Suze in a white Negroni, or maybe in an Aviation/French 75 hybrid.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A great first crack. They’ll have something special here before long. —Josh Pape, July 2017