Getting tipsy with Bar Pompette

Canada’s top bar is just a welcoming neighbourhood joint at heart

Canada’s No. 1 bar, Pompette has the welcoming vibe of a casual French bistro, but serious technique and skill go into every cocktail. Instagram/barpompette_to photo

Recently named the country’s No.1 bar by Canada’s 100 Best and listed among North America’s 50 Best Bars, Bar Pompette is one of Toronto’s favourite gems. Pompette is inviting and unpretentious, a bar that feels both cozy and elegant. Step inside and it feels like a French café, its minimalist setting featuring a gorgeous marble bar and a romantic patio in the back. And the name “Pompette” in itself, meaning “slightly tipsy,” reflects the bar’s fun, playful personality.

I spoke with co-founders Maxime Hoerth and Hugo Togni, both from France and with high-end hotel and restaurant backgrounds, about their passion for the industry, their move from France and what it took to establish such a presence in Toronto.

The journey began with Restaurant Pompette, which was opened in 2020 by French ex-pats Martine Bauer (the chef), Jonathan Bauer (the sommelier) and Hoerth (the barman). Togni joined as bartender and then helped open Bar Pompette in 2021. They later added a bakery, which prepares the fresh bread served at all three spaces. This trio of establishments has such a wonderful synergy, using ingredients that are local and seasonal with an element of surprise.

Bar Pompette’s cocktail menu is both simple yet full of sophistication. One of my absolute favourites is the Cornichon that’s been on the menu for a good minute. It’s a very drinkable variation on a classic gin Martini with a pickle distillate offering just the right amount of aromatics to make you want to re-visit again and again.

It’s made using the technique of rotary evaporation, creating a clear liquid that’s bursting with flavour. But most guests will probably never know the process that goes behind each cocktail.

Bar Pompette’s Nitro Colada (clarified pineapple, coconut water, coconut washed rum, curry leaf, house falernum, nitrogen) is a big step up from your typical tap cocktails. Instagram/barpompette_to photo

The Nitro Colada on tap has a scrumptious texture thanks to its centrifuge-clarified pineapple juice and coconut oil-washed rum. Team Pompette wanted something “easy to read on the paper … making sure that the flavour that we like tell on the paper is the flavour that you get in the drinks.” Those “Porsche in the garage” vibes are really working for them.

Despite having advanced gadgets and techniques, the bar remains approachable, making it a beloved spot for both cocktail enthusiasts and neighbourhood folks. During the pandemic, the neighbourhood’s support was crucial, and the bar continues to thrive thanks to loyal locals who frequent the bar, restaurant and bakery.

“At the beginning, we were working like 90 per cent with the neighbourhood. It was really something new for just a few blocks around. They saved us during the pandemic and helped us when we opened the bar,” Togni says.

When asked about the training required for so much attention to detail, Hoerth and Togni point out that it’s about a six-month process to learn the ins and outs of the space, so they invest in their team, educate them on advanced techniques and allow for lots of experimentation. They also work closely with local farmers and seasonal purveyors to put out an ever-evolving menu. And Pompette’s team also frequents industry events to show support for their community.

In essence, Bar Pompette is more than just a bar. It has solidified itself as a neighbourhood institution that has significantly influenced Toronto’s cocktail landscape, as well as making noise globally. With a focus on authenticity, community, quality and seasonality, Pompette is that sort of quiet giant you would not want to miss.

“We wanted to have a good bar,” says Hoerth. “The best reaction is when people come here, have a couple of drinks, and say, ‘That’s some really good stuff you do here.’”

You can’t help but fall in love with everything Bar Pompette has to offer.

—by Evelyn Chick

Totally retro, all-new Meo

Chinatown’s hot new bar is all about tantalizingly unexpected tastes

Inspired by vintage Taipei and historic Chinatown, Meo is tucked below (and a sibling to) Michelin-starred Kissa Tanto. Charles Nasby photo

“Is it OK if the flowers are on the edges?” a server asks as she tweezes a bloom onto the Citrus Crush cocktail and carries it to a waiting table of excited friends.

It’s 5 p.m. on a Thursday at Meo, Chinatown’s newest cocktail bar. Though the doors just opened, the place has immediately started to fill. I overhear one of the managers say there are 55 people on the books tonight and more walk-ins are expected.

It’s sunny outside, but you’d never know it in the low light of the room themed after a 1970s love-motel. Part lounge and part living room, Meo feels like an elevated version of a retro home bar. As if you stepped back in time to visit your grandparents with exquisite taste and an extensive liquor collection. The pink-hued interior and menus are influenced by Taipei and photos of Vancouver’s Chinatown from the same era.

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Another round at Cocktail Bar

This Toronto institution enters an exciting new chapter with bar manager Juliana Wolkowski

Juliana Wolkowski is bringing visionary leadership to Toronto fan favourite Cocktail Bar. Erin Leydon photo

In the heart of Toronto’s vibrant cocktail scene, where new bars are constantly coming up with all sorts of innovative ways to bring entertaining, theatrical serves to life, there’s one place that stands out as a true, classic gem: Cocktail Bar.

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A world of flavours

At The Watson, it’s all about a laidback vibe and well-travelled cocktails

The Watson’s bar manager, Jordan Coelho, experiments with flavours he’s discovered around the world. Chelsea Brown photo

The late afternoon light filters through the window, casting a lazy haze over Main Street’s newest bar, The Watson.

The crew preps for opening, whirring around the dark wood and green leather interior accented with marble and gold fixtures. The space feels simultaneously Parisian yet West Coast, Art Deco yet contemporary.

Bar manager and partner Jordan Coelho says he wanted it to feel like a library and gestures to the apothecary shelf behind the bar that he hopes to deck out with homemade bitters. Their house-blend amaro already sits in pride of place, aging in Woodford Reserve barrels.

As opening approaches, shakers are already ringing out in the capable hands of bartender Thomas Dodds (previously of The Diamond).

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Serious Storytelling

Suyo’s bartenders sidestep pretension by perfecting the art of not taking yourself too seriously

The bar team at Suyo Modern Peruvian—Andrew Kong, left, and bar manager Max Curzon-Price—tell the tale of Peru in their creative cocktails. Chelsea Brown photo

Inside the recently opened Suyo Modern Peruvian on Main Street, just above the chorus of stylish 20-somethings and couples on date night, the bartenders can be heard telling the story of Peru—from undergrowth to clouds, ancient Incan civilization to contemporary culture.

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Setting the stage

At Published on Main, Dylan Riches performs cocktail theatre 

At Published on Main, Dylan Riches pushes boundaries with his creative cocktails. Sarah Annand photo

Ask Dylan Riches to trace his journey from the wilds of Prince George to bar manager at East Vancouver’s celebrated Published on Main, and he’ll ultimately suggest that he’s simply swapped one stage for another. 

“One of the things I love most about this industry is that the path is not the same for every single person,” Riches says at the award-winning restaurant. “I love talking to people in the industry, getting to know them, hearing about where they come from. Every person’s path has a different turn or twist.”

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