Gin’s dark past comes to light as distillers go back to the drink’s barrel-aged roots
Early gin was stored and shipped in barrels, so it was naturally darker. Modern barrel-aging aims to add vanilla and spice complexity to gin’s botanicals. Dan Toulgoet photo
To the superstitious, a black cat is a bad omen. But to underground drinkers during Prohibition, spotting a sign depicting an old tomcat meant you’d hit the gin jackpot.
A precursor to the crisp and clear London dry gin, Old Tom gin was stored and shipped in wooden barrels, so it had a naturally darker hue. Sometimes it was sweeter or more resiny, thanks to the addition of sugar or, yes, turpentine. Swill or not, Old Tom was probably better than no Tom.
Situated in the fertile Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, Wayward Distillery crafts each spirit on a base of sustainable honey, supporting local agriculture while achieving an unparalleled silky-sweet flavour. Home to a tasting bar, visitors can see firsthand how the team ferments and distills their spirits on-site from a base of sustainable honey, mixed with grain.
Crowd favourites include Krupnik, an intoxicating toasted honey liqueur spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, raw vanilla and citrus peel; Drunken Hive Rum, an “aged rum for whisky drinkers” made from caramelized BC honey and aged in bourbon casks; and Depth Charge, an espresso and cacao bean vodka infusion incorporating fairtrade coffee and organic cacao nibs.
When Wayward first began distilling spirits, the distillery partnered with Golden Clover Apiary located in the Peace region of BC. The apiary cared deeply about the health and long-term sustainability of pollination, bees, and BC-grown agricultural produce. The more Wayward learned about the importance of pollinators, the more the distillers cared about their well-being.
Wayward cares so much in fact, that they’ve pledged to donate 1 per cent of all spirit sales to Pollinator Partnership Canada, a not-for-profit registered charity dedicated to the protection and promotion of pollinators and their ecosystems through conservation, education, and research.
• Smoked Drunken Hive Rum Cask strength, 750ml, 56.7% ABV • Drunken Hive Rum – fermented from honey 750ml, 375ml, 42.5% ABV • Krupnik – spiced honey liqueur 750ml, 375ml, 40% ABV, Also available in celiac safe version • Raspberry Gin Liqueur 750ml, 375ml, 25% ABV • Swallowed Anchor Bourbon – Limited quantities available Cask strength, 750ml, 55.91% ABV • Depth Charge – Espresso and Cacao Bean Vodka Infusion 375ml, 33% ABV • Elixir 151 – fermented from honey 375ml, 75.5% ABV • Char #3, Bourbon Barrel Aged Gin – fermented from honey 375ml, 45.0% ABV • Unruly Gin – fermented from honey 750ml, 375ml, 43% ABV • Unruly Vodka – fermented from honey 750ml, 375ml, 40% ABV
TASTING NOTES:
Unruly Vodka
FRAGRANCE: Floral and earthy. Honey, new garden notes. FLAVOUR: Sweetness from the honey with hints of vanilla. FEEL: Full body, pleasant viscosity. FINISH: Long, savoury. BEST ENJOYED: Mixes well with basil, pineapple and lemon. Also fantastic neat, or on the rocks. Preferred olives for a Martini. THE BOTTOM LINE: Unique vodka made from B.C. honey—a must try for those looking for something different. —Scott Barber, April 2016
Unruly Gin
FRAGRANCE:Juniper, and pine. Slight honey and sweet nose. FLAVOUR:Muted juniper, semi-sweet, white pepper on the palate. FEEL:Thick, silky mouthfeel. FINISH:Slightly bitter, with honeyed herbal finish. BEST ENJOYED:Delicious in a Last Word; mix with citrus. THE BOTTOM LINE:A sweeter, crowd-pleasing gin (not for London Dry fans). Use in cocktails.—Shaun Layton, July 2016
Depth Charge Espresso & Cacao Bean Liqueur
FRAGRANCE: Sweet coffee. FLAVOUR: Deep off-dry cacao bitterness with coffee overtones. FEEL: Thin and dry. FINISH: Long lasting non-offensive bitterness. BEST ENJOYED: On the rocks. THE BOTTOM LINE: Not a sweet liqueur. A great balance of bitter and dry. —Robyn Gray, October 2016
Krupnik Spiced Honey Liqueur
FRAGRANCE:Cinnamon, honey, nutmeg, vanilla. FLAVOUR:A beautiful fall day in a glass. FEEL:Thick like a liqueur. I’d definitely cut it with a base spirit such as rum or bourbon. FINISH: Warm, sweet, spicy. Yum! BEST ENJOYED:Chill and sip on rocks or mix in a cocktail. Whiskey Sour using bourbon, Krupnik, lemon, chai and bitters. THE BOTTOM LINE: These guys are doing everything right. —Scott Barber, February 2017
Bourbon-Barrelled Gin
FRAGRANCE:Surprisingly intense vanilla. Yum! FLAVOUR:Citrus, with pleasant vanilla and earthy tones. FEEL:Light, medium body. FINISH: Spicy. BEST ENJOYED:Neat or on the rocks. Try it in a Martini, Negroni or Corpse Reviver #2. THE BOTTOM LINE: If you’re looking for a gin that isn’t juniper forward, this is for you. I love working with and drinking this product.—Scott Barber, July 2017
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Unruly Vodka
Unruly Gin
Depth Charge Espresso & Cacao Bean Liqueur
Krupnik Spiced Honey Liqueur
Bourbon-Barrelled Gin