A shift out of neutral

The Alchemist’s tasting panel samples B.C. vodkas for a taste of the province’s most crowd-pleasing spirit

The lineup of vodkas tasted by the panel reflected a range of flavours from clean and neutral to surprisingly lush, fruity, bold and intense. Dan Toulgoet photo

Nazdarovya! With the FIFA World Cup kicking off this month in Russia, our thoughts have turned to vodka. (That and Neymar’s incredible comeback, of course.)

Vodka is often described as a “colourless, odourless, flavourless” spirit, but its clean subtlety is sometimes just what we crave. And so we asked our Alchemist tasting panel comprising some of Vancouver’s top bartenders—Olivia Povarchook of Vij’s Restaurant, Katie Ingram of Toptable Group and Josh Pape of Gooseneck Hospitality (Wildebeest, Bells and Whistles, Bufala, Lucky Taco)—to sample eight artisanal B.C. vodkas, share their thoughts and suggest cocktails to make with them.

Here’s what they had to say.

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BC Distilled 2018

De Vine Spirits. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.

Central City Brewers & Distillers. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Goodridge & Williams Craft Distillers. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Victoria Caledonian Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Okanagan Spirits Craft Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Tailored Spirits. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Old Order Distilling Co. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
The 101 Brewhouse + Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
After Dark Disillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Shelter Point Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Gillespie's Fine Spirits. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Resurrection Spirits. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Pacific Rim Distilling. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Phillips Soda Works. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Phillips Fermentorium Distilling Co. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Salt Spring Shine Craft Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Victoria Distillers. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Lucid Spirits. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Stillhead Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Rootside Provisions. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Tumbleweed Spirits. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
The Woods Spirit Company. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
The Alchemist publisher Gail Nugent with B.C. Distilled founder Alex Hamer. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Mixers and Elixers. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Legend Distilling. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Long Table Distillery. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.
Yaletown Distilling Co. Byron Smith/Tank Five photo.

Spirits were high at the fifth annual BC Distilled festival at the Croatian Cultural Centre in Vancouver on April 14, which brought together 40 artisan distilleries from around the province, including a dozen new distilleries that have opened in the last year.

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Delta Rising

At G&W Distilling, Stephen Goodridge has big plans

Stephen Goodridge. Lou Lou Childs photo.

Stephen Goodridge built G&W Distilling’s Delta-based distillery himself. From scratch.

“I’m a mechanical engineer by training. I wanted to do it myself,” he says, as if nothing could be easier.

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G&W Distilling

Goodridge & Williams is quickly becoming a national player in craft distilling, led by the best-selling Sid’s Handcrafted Vodka and award-winning Nütrl Vodka.

7167 Vantage Way #8, Delta
604-376-0630
GWDistilling.com

Read more about G&W Distilling:
Delta Rising: At G&W Distilling, Stephen Goodridge has big plans

Labatt acquires Goodridge & Williams Distilling, makers of Nütrl Vodka Soda drinks

Amour for amaro: The Alchemist’s tasting panel revels in the complexities of made-in-B.C. amaros, vermouths and aperitifs

 


PRODUCTS:

• Nütrl Vodka
• Tempo Renovo Gin
• Tempo Fresa Strawberry Gin
• Tempo Arándano Blueberry Gin
• Sid The Handcrafted Vodka
• Western Grains Whisky
• Northern Grains Whisky
• Bitterhouse Aperitifs
• Nütrl Vodka Soda
• Highball Whisky Soda
• Tempo Gin Smash
• Tempo Gin Soda Lime
• Bitterhouse Spritz


TASTING NOTES:


Silverdawn Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Banana, vanilla, chocolate.
FLAVOUR: Sweet and savoury; banana on the palate.
FEEL: Medium-full body.
FINISH: Delicate and memorable. A long, flavourful conclusion.
BEST ENJOYED: Sipping vodka, best enjoyed neat or on the rocks. With olives or a twist in a Martini, maybe even a fresh raspberry.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Holds up on its own, with flavour characteristics that deserve not to be masked by juice. —Scott Barber, April 2016


NÜTRL

FRAGRANCE: Citrus notes, especially orange.
FLAVOUR: Not much on the palate.
FEEL: Slightly creamy mouthfeel.
FINISH: Smooth and short.
BEST ENJOYED: Chilled neat, or with a few ice cubes and lemon zest.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Decent vodka that ticks the boxes vodka should: clean and neutral. —Trevor Kallies, July 2016


Bitterhouse Rubato

FRAGRANCE: Rhubarb, strawberry, almost like an Eastern European pastry shop.
FLAVOUR: Subtle summer fruit, bitter liquorice, cream soda.
FEEL: Very light on the palate. 
FINISH: Lasting bitterness, stays around for a while.
BEST ENJOYED: Needs bubbles! Negroni Sbagliato or Americano.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A great alternative to Campari or other, harder to find, bitters. —Shaun Layton, October 2016


Bitterhouse Daman

FRAGRANCE: Grapefruit and more grapefruit.
FLAVOUR: Not as tart as expected, very well balanced aperitif. Perfect acidity. 
FEEL: Definitely a little viscosity, but not heavy or thick. 
FINISH: Light, memorable. Could convert even grapefruit haters.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat, chilled over ice, or in cocktails. We feature it in a Gin Sour.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Buy a bottle and have some fun. Mix it up! Very cool product. —Scott Barber, February 2017


Tempo Renovo Dry Gin

FRAGRANCE: Sweet vanilla.
FLAVOUR: Vanilla and buttery.
FEEL: Medium bodied. 
FINISH: Long-lasting sweetness. 
BEST ENJOYED: In a Silver Gin Fizz.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Beautiful, easy-going sweetness makes for a versatile cocktail gin. —Robyn Gray, July 2017


NÜTRL Vodka Soda

FRAGRANCE: Light lemon zest.
FLAVOUR: Tastes like a vodka soda with a squeeze of lemon.
FEEL: Feels like a vodka soda with a squeeze of lemon.
FINISH: Short, clean finish (like a vodka soda with a squeeze of lemon). 
BEST ENJOYED: Neat, straight from the fridge. Recommend over ice and cold, cold, cold.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Ideal for camping/boating/barbecue/outdoor activities/poolside/sport events. —Trevor Kallies, October 2017