Features, The Alchemist

Big Flavours, Little Packages

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B.C.’s small-batch distillers got crafty in this season, releasing new bottled cocktails, gift packs, special editions and other little goodies—from vermouth to liqueur—ideal for stuffing stockings, or treating yourself to new tastes.

Odd Society’s Joel McNichol with the distillery’s collection of limited edition brewery collab whiskies. Katharine Manson photo

Cocktail lovers have a whole back-bar of B.C. craft cocktails and spirits to taste this holiday season. Mini-bottle sets are a hot commodity: Shelter Point’s 12 Days of Christmas advent calendar sold out, direct from the distillery, in hours. More common are spirit trios, which you can break apart into three little presents, or sample without investing in full-size bottles. Sheringham’s gin trios sell out at Legacy Liquor Store, where Remy Letendre, the buyer for the extensive B.C. craft spirits section, says, “This year, I was excited to see a few brands take part in the ‘tri-pack’ Christmas selection. I think it’s a great way for these craft distilleries to get people to try a wider range of products. The early success of the Esquimalt vermouth tri-pack just shows how people are willing to branch out … for home bartending.”

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The Alchemist

Last minute gift guide: Warming whiskies

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Need something to tuck under the tree? We’ve got you covered with these holiday bottles

istockphoto.com

Here at The Alchemist, we pretty much always think a bottle of something delicious makes a good gift, especially if that bottle contains whisky. If you’re looking for a last-minute gift, these are the are the sippers we’d like to find under our own Christmas trees. (For more gift ideas, see Last Minute Gift Guide Part 2: Spirited presents.)

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Features

Return of the green fairy

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The spirit that supposedly drove a generation of French artists mad is back in B.C., where distillers are reinventing absinthe

The traditional way to serve absinthe is by filling a fountain like this one at Botanist with ice water, then dripping it through a sugar cube on a spoon into the spirit, where it creates the cloudy effect known as the louche. Dan Toulgoet photo

It’s all fun and games until someone loses an ear. Vincent Van Gogh’s escapades might have delivered the final cut to the fashionable, anise-flavoured spirit absinthe, invented in Switzerland in the late 18th century and favoured by Belle Époque bohemians. Seen as highly addictive and dangerous, it was banned in the U.S. and much of Europe for nearly a century, until 2007.

Likely the poor quality or high-proof base spirit—not the relatively small amount of hallucogenic thujone, naturally found in absinthe’s bittering agent, wormwood (Artemesia absinthium)—was responsible for absinthe-attributed naughtiness. But its reputation as the bad boy of the spirits world persists, as does its role in cocktails, particularly of the French-influenced New Orleans school, such as the Sazerac, Corpse Reviver No. 2 and La Louisiane.

Here are five local absinthes to try, from newcomers to B.C.’s standard-bearers.

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Features

Distant distilleries

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The challenges and benefits of making spirits in rural regions

Because shipping to Hornby is so expensive, Island Spirits distiller Pete Kimmerly transported his shiny new still himself. Tim Pawsey photo

What’s the flip side of the urban winery? That’ll be the rural distillery. Artisan distilling in British Columbia is on a roll, with some 60 distilleries in full operation, and at least a dozen more to open within the year (according to BC Distilled). While the Lower Mainland is home to many distilleries, there’s no shortage of them popping up in far-flung spots, from Shirley and Ucluelet to Wynndel and Wycliffe.

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Features

Whisky Galore!

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B.C.’s fledgling industry prepares for a bright future

Whisky is set to be the next boom in B.C. spirits. Thinkstock photo.

After just five years in business, British Columbia’s distillers have already confronted some mighty challenges. For one, it takes years of practice to make a quality product. Plus, craft liquor is expensive—not only for consumers at the till but for makers at the still.

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B.C. Distilleries

Pemberton Distillery

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Master distiller Tyler Schramm uses local organic Pemberton potatoes as the base for his extensive range of spirits
and liqueurs.

1954 Venture Pl., Pemberton
604-894-0222
PembertonDistillery.ca

Read more about Pemberton Distillery:

• Recipe: The Green Beast

• Return of the green fairy: The spirit that supposedly drove a generation of French artists mad is back in B.C., where distillers are reinventing absinthe

PRODUCTS:

• Schramm Organic Gin
• Schramm Organic Potato Vodka
• Pemberton Valley Organic Single Malt Whisky
• The Devil’s Club – Organic Absinthe
• Organic Hemp Vodka
• Whisky Liqueur
• Barrel Aged Apple Brandy

TASTING NOTES:

Schramm Organic Potato Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Earthy; soil, wet wood, raw potato.
FLAVOUR: Dark chocolate, agave, smoky caramel.
FEEL: Bold, full-bodied, silky texture.
FINISH: Long, memorable, almost tequila-like.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat, or on the rocks for sipping; makes a great Martini with olives.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Not for everyone, but a fascinating finished product. Great example of traditional potato vodka using Scottish distillation techniques. —Scott Barber, April 2016

Schramm Organic Gin

FRAGRANCE: Fresh herbs, hints of citrus, lavender.
FLAVOUR: Subtle juniper, gooseberry.
FEEL: Off dry, light.
FINISH: Mild sweetness, herbaceous.
BEST ENJOYED: Fun to use with blackberries or Bing cherries in cocktails.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Fantastic local gin. Try some! —Scott Barber, July 2016

The Devil’s Club Organic Absinthe

FRAGRANCE: Fennel, anise, could be mistaken for Yellow Chartreuse.
FLAVOUR: Hints of hemp seed, anise is not overpowering, bright fennel, hops, warm wormwood.
FEEL: Perfect amount of silkiness.
FINISH: Finishes hot, bright, non offensive.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat, or in a cocktail emphasizing citrus.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A must try! Super fresh, it’s 60 per cent ABV, so go easy. —Scott Barber, October 2016

Organic Kartoffelschnapps

FRAGRANCE: Earth and honey.
FLAVOUR: Tastes like potato. Slightly sweet with gentle spicy notes.
FEEL: Good viscosity, full across the palate.
FINISH: Lingers at the back of your tongue, almost like candy.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat, on the rocks, or mixed into a cocktail as a secondary liqueur.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Unique and worth a try. I have not sampled anything like this before. —Scott Barber, February 2017

Whisky & Wild Honey Liqueur

FRAGRANCE: Whisky and honey. Surprise!
FLAVOUR: Vanilla. Leather.  
FEEL: Velvety. Soft and luxurious.
FINISH: Increasingly complex.
BEST ENJOYED: On the rocks. Maybe with more (peated) whisky added as a Rusty Nail alternative.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A tasty local alternative to products made abroad. —Josh Pape, October 2017