Toronto speakeasies have day jobs

M2 Wasabi Bento from M2. Instagram.com/m2bymm photo

Finding speakeasies can be tough going, when they lurk in dark alleys and are identified by something as subtle as a lightbulb, unmarked door or password. The new-speakie trend in Toronto is bars that put on the face of neighbourhood businesses during the day, with storefronts (faux or functioning) that give way to cocktail service at night. Sometimes, they’re hiding in plain sight: for instance, upstairs at La Plume Brasserie in The Well, the last door in a row of toilettes is actually vintage speakeasy Bonne Nuit, open weekends.

Strawberry Shortcake from Bar 404. Photo courtesy of Bar 404

Behind a faux candle shop up the stairs at 85 John Street, find Bar 404 Cocktail & Urban Speakeasy, where elaborate concoctions like the creamy, Biscoff-topped Strawberry Shortcake vie with great happy hour deals until 8 pm (like select classic cocktails for $12).

M2 by Matcha Matcha at 407 Church Street is an offshoot of the popular café and matcha brand. M2 bar has Japanese-style desserts and culinary-influenced highballs, such as fizzy Tomato Champagne or Pineapple Bun drinks. It’s also on the savoury, spirit-forward trend with cocktails like Wasabi Bento.

At 520 Richmond West, what seems to be a standard-issue street-level condo café flips its identity at night: enter from behind, and it becomes a cocktail den after dark, featuring wild concoctions like a cocktail inspired by Filipino Caldereta stew, or a milk punch with flavours of green tea, strawberry and lemon.

Bar After Seven says it all in the name: a yogurt shop just northeast of Queen West and John Street, complete with self-order screen at the entryway, turns into a chic Japanese-inspired cocktail bar later. Sample flights of Japanese and Taiwanese whisky or sake, or inspired classic riffs from a Curry Colada to an Espressotini with Nutella and coconut.

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