Demystifying vermouth

The Alchemist tasting panel samples the fortified, aromatized elixir

Vermouth ranges from palest straw to deep ruby red, with flavours to match. Dan Toulgoet photo

Vermouth is not just an essential ingredient in many cocktails, it is already a cocktail, a wine fortified with spirits and flavoured with herbs, spices and other botanicals. And it’s enjoying a major comeback right now.

Five of Vancouver’s top bartenders gathered on a rainy afternoon at Tableau Bar Bistro to taste this beguiling product: Sabrine Dhaliwal, bar manager of Juke Fried Chicken and Beetbox; Adam Domet, bar manager at Pourhouse; J-S Dupuis, beverage director of Wentworth Hospitality; Robyn Gray of Elisa Steakhouse; and Katie Ingram, bar manager at Elisa Steakhouse.

They all love vermouth. “It’s rich in flavour and lower in alcohol,” Ingram said. “And we’re all flavour junkies. So we get that fix of citrus and bitterness and everything you’re looking for.” Besides, with prices as low as $12 for a litre bottle, vermouth is also a complete bargain.

The panel tasted 16 local and international vermouths. Here’s what they had to say.

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The Allure

The Allure, an apple-based cocktail created by Jo Last, senior bartender at London’s Beaufort Bar. Photo courtest of Beaufort Bar at the Savoy

Cocktail created by Beaufort Bar senior bartender Jo Last, who says: “Few fruits are featured more in magic than the apple. From Greek mythology with Aphrodite through the Garden of Eden with Eve and all the way to folklore with Snow White, the humble apple unites stories of power, envy and temptation.”

• 1 oz Grey Goose vodka
• 0.5 oz apple blossom-infused Martini Ambrato
• 0.25 oz 30&40 aperitif (a blend of calvados, pommeau and rum)
• 0.75 oz apple cordial
• 1 oz malic solution

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