Umami, the savoury so-called fifth taste after sweet, sour, salty and bitter, is having a moment in the world of drink. Think Dirty Martinis, whisky made with mushrooms, gin with savoury herbs and olives, or cocktails shaken with miso, saline or soy sauce.

Now distillers are turning to the sea for what might be our favourite umami-rich ingredient yet: the oyster.

A couple of years back, Copperpenny Distilling in North Vancouver released a gin made with Fanny Bay oyster shells, which added hints of umami and brine that led the gin to be named the 2023 BC Food & Beverage “Product of the Year” and win two silvers at the 2023 UK Gin Masters blind tasting competition.

In Australia, meanwhile, the distillers at Manly Spirits in New South Wales had a similar idea, crafting their Oyster Pearl Vodka with “oceanic elements sourced from the Sydney Rock oyster shell, harmoniously interwoven with a medley of foraged marine botanicals.”

On Rhode Island, ISCO Spirits (a.k.a The Industrious Spirit Company) has gone a step further, with their Ostreida Oyster Vodka, which is made with actual fresh-farmed oysters for a vodka that is savoury and briny with a “bivalve bouquet.”

But our favourite might just be the recent collab between Driftwood Spirits and Shuck Taylor’s terrific little oyster bar, both located in Victoria. The Shuck Taylors x Driftwood Oyster Spirit is distilled with the freshest Vancouver Island oysters for the full essence of minerality and brine of the sea. To try it, you’ll need to pop over to the Island and enjoy a shot at Shuck Taylor’s or an Oyster Spirit Caesar at Driftwood Bar & Patio. wanderingmollusk.com, driftwoodspirits.ca