At Coquille Fine Seafood, Shaun Layton’s bar program focuses on “light, crushable drinks” that pair well with the menu. This variation on the classic French 75 comes from Harry’s Bar in Paris: “Until I went to Harry’s Bar, I never knew they served it long on the rocks with a bit of Ricard,” Layton says.

• 1 oz London Dry gin
• 1 oz fresh lemon juice
• 0.5 oz simple syrup
• Sparkling wine
• Float of Ricard pastis

Place the gin, lemon and simple syrup in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake. Fine strain into a chilled coupe and top with sparkling wine, then drizzle a float of pastis on top. Serves 1.

Note: To make simple syrup, bring 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water just to a boil, stirring, until sugar is fully dissolved.

—by Shaun Layton