There’s new life in the old tomcat

Gin’s dark past comes to light as distillers go back to the drink’s barrel-aged roots

Early gin was stored and shipped in barrels, so it was naturally darker. Modern barrel-aging aims to add vanilla and spice complexity to gin’s botanicals. Dan Toulgoet photo

To the superstitious, a black cat is a bad omen. But to underground drinkers during Prohibition, spotting a sign depicting an old tomcat meant you’d hit the gin jackpot.

A precursor to the crisp and clear London dry gin, Old Tom gin was stored and shipped in wooden barrels, so it had a naturally darker hue. Sometimes it was sweeter or more resiny, thanks to the addition of sugar or, yes, turpentine. Swill or not, Old Tom was probably better than no Tom.

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Canada’s new cocktail queen

Diageo World Class winner Kaitlyn Stewart brings her cool consistency to the global stage

Kaitlyn Stewart, bar manager at Vancouver’s Royal Dinette, is the 2017 winner of Diageo’s World Class Canada.
Fred Fung/Royal Dinette photo

If there were any lingering doubts that Vancouver has become a world-class cocktail city, Kaitlyn Stewart has just laid them to rest.

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Roots and Wings Distillery

Rebekah Crowley and Rob Rindt built a distillery and tasting room on their Fraser Valley farm where they crop 30 acres of potatoes and corn.

7897 240th St., Langley
778-246-5247
RootsAndWingsDistillery.ca

Read more about Roots & Wings Distillery

It’s G&T time: The Alchemist’s tasting panel searches for the best B.C. gin to enjoy with your tonic

Field work: potatoes fuel the spirit at Langley’s Roots and Wings Distillery


PRODUCTS:

• Vital Vodka
• Double Vice Coffee Infused Vodka
• Renegade (Horseradish-infused vodka)
• Dill Pickled Vodka
• Peachy Keen Vodka
• Jackknife Gin
• Encore Gin
• Rebel
• Sidekick
• Johnny Handsome
• Old Fashioned Spirit
• 5th Element Absinthe


TASTING NOTES:


Vital Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Vanilla, cream corn, créme brulée.
FLAVOUR: Custard, funky earth notes, white pepper, this IS a potato and corn vodka.
FEEL: Slightly viscous, but buttery in a very good way.
FINISH: A load of spice stays around for a minute.
BEST ENJOYED: Will make a buttery Martini that packs a spicy finish, or a Moscow Mule.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Surprisingly ballsy finish after a sweet nose, cool product. —Shaun Layton, February 2017


Hops and Honey Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Malty, resiny, touch of buttery corn.
FLAVOUR: Faint coriander spice, danky, dry pepper, honeysuckle.
FEEL: Creamy on the palate.
FINISH: Nice subtle black pepper, piney, slightly bitter.
BEST ENJOYED: Would make a great collins style drink, looking forward to this in a Michelada or a Caesar.
THE BOTTOM LINE: I wouldn’t put it in the vodka category, theres a lot going on. A very intriguing spirit. —Shaun Layton, July 2017


Rebel

FRAGRANCE: Cooked corn and orange.
FLAVOUR: Corn comes through with playful citrus notes and a touch of smoke.
FEEL: Mild creaminess.
FINISH: A little baking spice on the front, a touch of smoke on the back. 
BEST ENJOYED: Could sub into a sour or Old Fashioned with some ease.
THE BOTTOM LINE: An interesting take on a young (soon-to-be) corn whisky. —Trevor Kallies, October 2017


Stealth Distilleries Corporation

Master distiller Randy Poulin and Stealth president John Pocekovic specialize in vodka made from field-dried Okanagan corn.

#3-20 Orwell St. North Vancouver
604-916-4103
StealthVodka.com


PRODUCTS:

• Stealth Corn Vodka
• Stealth Wheat Vodka


TASTING NOTES:


Stealth Vodka No. 9

FRAGRANCE: A hint of alcohol on the nose with a small touch of cream.
FLAVOUR: Slight bit of grain with white pepper.
FEEL: The palate is smooth with a tiny element of alcohol warmth.
FINISH: Fairly abrupt.
BEST ENJOYED: In your favorite mixed vodka drink.
THE BOTTOM LINE: As craft vodkas go it is right up there. Packaging is bartender friendly, with a decent neck to grab onto. —Trevor Kallies, February 2017


Stealth Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Caramel, butterscotch even.
FLAVOUR: Toffee, candy corn.
FEEL: Light.
FINISH: Dryer than the nose suggests.
BEST ENJOYED: In a shaken cocktail with fruit or citrus.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A New World-style vodka for those who like sweeter drinks. —Josh Pape, October 2017


Mad Laboratory Distilling

Truly handmade using a small homebrew mill and a pump, Mad Laboratory’s vodka is triple distilled and carbon filtered from Armstrong barley and Champagne yeast.

119-618 East Kent Ave., Vancouver
madlabdistilling.com


PRODUCTS:

• ULKERaki
• Mad Lab Vodka
• Viking Vodka
• Mad Lab Gin6
• Mad Dog Single Malt White Spirit
• Chocolate Spiced Mad Dog Single Malt
• Kombucha Cordials
• Pre-mixed cocktails


TASTING NOTES:


Mad Lab Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Clean, light fragrance of sweet wheat, vanilla, and hints of doughy bread.
FLAVOUR: Very smooth, lightly sweet with notes of black pepper, hint of vanilla.
FEEL: Silky and dry.
FINISH: Super clean, lightly creamy.
BEST ENJOYED: Stirred, straight up with a twist.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Brand new distillery, only the 4th batch made; Mad Lab nailed it. —Wendy McGuinness, July 2016


Mad Lab Gin

FRAGRANCE: Sweet and fruity.
FLAVOUR: Clean and citrusy.
FEEL: Tickling mouth-feel.
FINISH: Spicy, biting.
BEST ENJOYED: In a White Lady (gin, Cointreau, lemon).
THE BOTTOM LINE: A six-botanical cucumber gin that is delicate and nuanced. Very clean tasting. —Robyn Gray, February 2017


Mad Dog Single Malt White Spirit

FRAGRANCE: A brewery in the morning. Lovely. 
FLAVOUR: Toasted pumpernickel bread. 
FEEL: Punchy, then round. 
FINISH: Honey. Long and sweet.
BEST ENJOYED: As a sour. Heavy on the angostura, or even with 10 ml of amaro. 
THE BOTTOM LINE: Not sure about the white whisky trend, but this is a good indicator of the aged spirit Mad Dog will produce. —Josh Pape, October 2017


Enter the dragon

Is Baijiu the new tequila?

Baijiu is beginning to make its mark on western cocktail menus. Lou Lou Childs photo

As unlikely as it sounds, the infamous Chinese firewater baijiu—a pungent brew capable of bringing tears to eyes and setting throats ablaze—could be the hot new ingredient for bartenders.

Clear, potent (50 per cent-plus alcohol by volume) and often compost-pile fetid, the centuries-old spirit distilled from sorghum and other grains is also the world’s most consumed liquor.

Never heard of it? You’re not alone.

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The Woods Spirit Co.

Friends Joel Myers and Fabio Martini’s West Coast version of Amaro uses traditional botanicals such as rhubarb and bitter orange, as well as the more unconventional grand fir.

1450 Rupert Street, North Vancouver (opening soon)
778-996-7637
TheWoodsSpiritCo.com

Read more about The Woods Spirit Co.:

Amour for amaro: The Alchemist’s tasting panel revels in the complexities of made-in-B.C. amaros, vermouths and aperitifs

Business in the back, party in the front: Distillery tasting rooms are some of the hottest cocktail bars in B.C. Here are a few to try in the Vancouver area

Recipe: Local Negroni

 


PRODUCTS:

• Amaro
• Barrel-aged Amaro
• Cascadian Dry Gin
• Limoncello
• Nocino


TASTING NOTES:


Pacific Northwest Amaro

FRAGRANCE: Bright, fresh rhubarb, bitter orange peel dominate. Quince and nutmeg, too.
FLAVOUR: Bright, bitter citrus, herbs and unripe strawberry.
FEEL: A little thin.
FINISH: Quite bitter with clove, allspice and quinine.
BEST ENJOYED: After dinner. Try as a replacement to the Amaro Nonino in a Paper Plane.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Quality like this usually takes decades to perfect. A must-have for local spirit enthusiasts. —Shaun Layton, October 2017


Sons of Vancouver

James Lester and Richard Klaus now have a lounge licence at their North Vancouver distillery, meaning cocktail service is in
full effect.

1431 Crown St., North Vancouver
778-340-5388
SonsOfVancouver.ca

Read more about Sons of Vancouver

Some like it hot: Canada’s artisan distillers are bringing their own spiced heat to the party

Recipe: Spicy Moscow Mule

Recipe: Chuzzlewit’s Pear

A shift out of neutral: The Alchemist’s tasting panel samples B.C. vodkas for a taste of the province’s most crowd-pleasing spirit

Business in the back, party in the front: Distillery tasting rooms are some of the hottest cocktail bars in B.C. Here are a few to try in the Vancouver area

Recipe: Bourbon Sour

Sons of Vancouver’s Amaretto earns global amore

Recipe: Vancouver’s Brooklyn

Prodigal sons: How Sons of Vancouver is riding the big boom in small spirits

 


PRODUCTS:

• No. 82 Amaretto
• Barrel-aged No. 82 Amaretto
• Vodka Vodka Vodka
• Chili Vodka
• Coffee Liqueur Sucks
• Craft Clue Curacao
• Craft Tiki Creamer
• Craft Coconut Liqueur


TASTING NOTES:


Chili Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Peppers. Red bell and chillies.
FLAVOUR: Fire. All chillies all the time.
FEEL: Hot. Spicy.
FINISH: Lingering heat.
BEST ENJOYED: Sipped neat or in a Caesar.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A fun one to try if you like it hot. Very hot. —Josh Pape, July 2016


Barrel Aged No. 82 Amaretto

FRAGRANCE: Kalamata olives and vanilla. In a good way.
FLAVOUR: Marzipan, vanilla, with a touch of stone fruits.
FEEL: Velvety, lingering.
FINISH: Lingering heat.
BEST ENJOYED: Go old school: Godfather would be cool (with Scotch) — add a lemon twist to balance it.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Delicious. More complex than the original version. —Josh Pape, October 2016


No. 82 Amaretto

FRAGRANCE: Way more apricot jam than the more traditional apricot pits. 
FLAVOUR: More dried apricot flavour, raisin, caramelized fruit and honey.
FEEL: Sweet and sticky.
FINISH: Honey on toast.
BEST ENJOYED: On ice or over ice cream. Seriously: Enjoy this. 
THE BOTTOM LINE: Not your typical amaretto and better for it. Delicious. —Trevor Kallies, October 2017


Central City Brewers & Distillers

The successful B.C. brewer of the popular Red Racer beers, Central City began distilling after it moved into a giant new facility in North Surrey in 2013.

11411 Bridgeview Dr., Surrey
604-588-2337
CentralCityBrewing.com

Read more about Central City Brewing and Distilling:

Bitter & Sweet: Why you should be drinking vermouth made in B.C.

Roll out the barrel: Where B.C. was once a major barrel producer, today distillers are scrambling to find casks

Sweet launch for bitters line

What’s gold and bronze and acclaimed all over: Local Lohin McKinnon Whisky launches to international accolades

Recipe: Blueberry Gin Smash

It’s G&T time: The Alchemist’s tasting panel searches for the best B.C. gin to enjoy with your tonic

Business in the back, party in the front: Distillery tasting rooms are some of the hottest cocktail bars in B.C. Here are a few to try in the Vancouver area

Recipe: Salted Caramel Rob Roy

Royal flush: Central City’s newly-released gin pays homage to its B.C. roots

B.C.’s gold-medal gin: Central City strikes award-winning balance with Queensborough

Roll out the barrel: Surrey’s Central City may have begun as beer brewers, but they are fast becoming one of B.C.’s most important distillers of single malt.

B.C. distilleries aim to produce world-class whiskies

Recipe: QB Spring Into Gin cocktail

Recipe: QB Blackberry Zest cocktail

 


PRODUCTS:

• Lohin McKinnon Whiskies
• Queensborough Gin
• Queensborough Omakase Japanese Gin
• Queensborough Wine Barrel Aged Gin
• Queensborough Pink Raspberry Gin
• Sparrow Rum
• Peeled Orange Liqueur
• Fit Hard Soda
• Bitters by Christos


TASTING NOTES:


Queensborough Gin

FRAGRANCE: Spruce tip.
FLAVOUR: Spruce, juniper and citrus.
FEEL: Soft and smooth.
FINISH: Lasting botanical bouquet.
BEST ENJOYED: In a Last Word cocktail.
THE BOTTOM LINE:
London Dry style gin with added spruce tip gives a unique West Coast flavor. Well rounded. —Robyn Gray, July 2016


Spirit of Merlot Liqueur

FRAGRANCE: Very light. Background of wine fruit.
FLAVOUR: Light and subtly sweet. Allspice and anise notes.
FEEL: Thin, with some alcohol warmth.
FINISH: Lengthy. Sits on palate with a background of fruity notes.
BEST ENJOYED: Chilled or alongside a warm beverage.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A fun, local eau de vie. –Trevor Kallies, October 2016


Lohin McKinnon Single Malt Whisky

FRAGRANCE: Stonefruit, honey, heather, slight oak.
FLAVOUR: Christmas cake, toffee, candied citrus.
FEEL: Lovely silky feel on the palate.
FINISH: Subtle spice, stewed fruit, charred oak.
BEST ENJOYED: As is, no water, no ice.
THE BOTTOM LINE: If this is three years old, we are in for a treat in the next ten years on the West Coast for whisky. –Shaun Layton, February 2017


Spirit of IPA

FRAGRANCE: Floral, mild hops, citrus, jelly bean.
FLAVOUR: Slightly sweet, some chocolate notes.
FEEL: Light to medium body.
FINISH: Super clean, spicy, delicious.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat. Would also make a fantastic Gin Sour.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Super-cool product. Not overpowering or as hoppy as you might expect. –Scott Barber, June 2017


Lohin McKinnon Barley & Rye Lightly Peated Whisky

FRAGRANCE: A touch of peated grain when you search for it.
FLAVOUR: Peat smoke more present on palate. Rye spice is nice.
FEEL: Spicy.
FINISH: Nice rye spice.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat at bottle strength or a touch of water.
THE BOTTOM LINE: They did a good job on this one. It’s a fun whisky to sip on. –Trevor Kallies, October 2017


Odd Society Spirits

This East Vancouver distillery’s three founding self-described “odd” owners are busy producing different expressions of gin, vodka and both white (unaged), and single malt whiskies.

1725 Powell St., Vancouver
604-559-6745
OddSocietySpirits.com

Read more about Odd Society Spirits

Demystifying vermouth: The Alchemist tasting panel samples the fortified, aromatized elixir

Bitter & sweet: Why you should be drinking vermouth made in B.C.

Recipe: The Drive

A barrel of fun: Private-cask whisky sales are a “futures” investment in B.C.’s small-batch distillers. Here’s how and why they do it.

Amour for amaro: The Alchemist’s tasting panel revels in the complexities of made-in-B.C. amaros, vermouths and aperitifs

Recipe: Locals Only Negroni

Recipe: Elder Sour

Odd Society releases Elderflower Liqueur

Bartender in a bottle: Raise a glass to the supporting cast of B.C.’s cocktail scene—local craft syrups, sodas, tonics and other mixers

Recipe: Sea to Sky Rad-ler Beer Cocktail

It’s G&T time: The Alchemist’s tasting panel searches for the best B.C. gin to enjoy with your tonic

Recipe: Gins & Roses

Business in the back, party in the front: Distillery tasting rooms are some of the hottest cocktail bars in B.C. Here are a few to try in the Vancouver area

Recipe: Ambrosia

Recipe: Odd Society Gin & Tonic Sour

Recipe: Vancouver #2

The romance of amaro

Recipe: The Paper Plane, Updated

Recipe: Local Negroni

Recipe: Main Street “Wide Eye”

Recipe: Gentleman’s Sour

Come together: At Odd Society Spirits, innovation is all about collaboration

Recipe: Tell Me What You Will

Recipe: Vancouver Cocktail

Recipe: Chili Chocolate Manhattan

Recipe: The Milky Whey

Recipe: Forgotten Temple

Recipe: Mork from Ork

 


PRODUCTS:

• East Van Vodka
• Wallflower Gin
• Mongrel Unaged Spirit
• Oaken Wallflower Gin
• Elderflower Liqueur
• Crème de Cassis
• Bittersweet Vermouth
• Mia Amato Amaro
• Salal Gin
• Maple Canadian Whisky
• Commodore Canadian Single Malt Whisky
• Prospector Canadian Rye Whisky
• Canadian Single Malt Casks


TASTING NOTES:


Bittersweet Vermouth

FRAGRANCE: Gingerbread spice, bitter orange, vanilla.
FLAVOUR: Upfront viscous sweetness, making its way to the back of your palate with a lovely bitterness.
FEEL: Full and coating mouthfeel.
FINISH: Sweet orange and chocolate lift for an enjoyable bitter finish that goes on and on.
BEST ENJOYED: Serve at room temperature as a digestif; could shine in many different cocktails.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A must have! —Wendy McGuinness, April 2016


Wallflower Gin

FRAGRANCE: Lavender.
FLAVOUR: Surprisingly balanced.
FEEL: Lovely and fragrant.
FINISH: Sweet, long boozy finish.
BEST ENJOYED: As a boozy cocktail. Martinez or Pink Gin. Maybe even an Old Fashioned.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A really fun spirit. If you like floral notes then jump in — you won’t be disappointed. —Josh Pape, July 2016


Crème de Cassis

FRAGRANCE: Prunes, dried red fruit, berries.
FLAVOUR: Dried figs, raisins and currants.
FEEL: Rich. A bit cloying, but not overwhelmingly so.
FINISH: More balanced than expected.
BEST ENJOYED: In an El Diablo with Dickie’s ginger beer. Kir Royale (go easy, it’s quite concentrated).
THE BOTTOM LINE: The best cassis you’ll likely ever try. —Josh Pape, October 2016


Mia Amato Amaro

FRAGRANCE: Sweet, chocolate, with a musky background.
FLAVOUR: Semi-sweet bitterness, herbal. 
FEEL: Viscous.
FINISH: Long with a great balance of bitter and sweet. 
BEST ENJOYED: Cold neat, or try in a Paper Plane. 
THE BOTTOM LINE: Packaging knocks it out of the park. Fun and engaging, with a fantastic auburn colour. —Trevor Kallies, February 2017


Mongrel Unaged Spirit

FRAGRANCE: Buttered bread and light malty notes.
FLAVOUR: Complex and refined, very nice for an unaged rye-based spirit. Very well balanced. 
FEEL: Pleasant sweetness.
FINISH: Slightly hot, loads of spice, in a good way.
BEST ENJOYED: Makes a great White Whisky Sour. Begging to be shaken with citrus. 
THE BOTTOM LINE: Makes a great White Whisky Sour. Begging to be shaken with citrus. —Shaun Layton, October 2017