All hail the Empress’ new reign

Victoria’s grande dame gets a makeover with a sexy new bar and a truly royal namesake gin

The new Q Bar at the Fairmont Hotel Empress in Victoria, BC. Fairmont Hotel Empress photo

The gin is sky blue – that’s right, blue – and it has a delicate floral aroma. Add a little tonic water, though, and it magically turns a beautiful royal purple.

“It’s spectacular, isn’t it? It goes from that nice blue, then you pour the tonic in there, it swirls around, and you get that nice pink colour,” says Peter Hunt, president of Victoria Distillers. “It’s certainly something fun for bartenders and mixologists to play with.”

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Whisky in the jar

After five long years, Shelter Point’s single malt has come of age

Head distiller James Marinus at work. Supplied photo

“Ready for the tour?” Patrick Evans asks with a chuckle. I climb into the 4×4 expecting a leisurely ride through Shelter Point Distillery’s expansive property.

I am mistaken: Evans hits the gas and we’re off-roading into the bush faster than I can say, “I’ll take a wee dram.”

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A matter of taste

At Sheringham Distillery, Jason MacIsaac brings a chef’s palate to the still

David McIlvride photo

Twenty-three years in kitchens taught Jason MacIsaac all about balance. Bitter versus sweet, savoury versus salty, weight versus intensity—key principles in creating harmonious foods. Now, as founder, owner, operator, distiller and, along with his wife Alayne, every other possible role at Vancouver Island’s Sheringham Distillery, MacIssac has transposed those culinary skills to the still.

“As a chef, studying flavour profiles was my career,” he reflects. “Balancing flavours has been a passion. Every chef can start with the same ingredients but have vastly different outcomes. The same goes for distilling.”

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Through the grapevine

How a vintner became one of B.C.’s leading distillers

Room with a view: deVine’s distillery looks out at Mount Baker. Supplied photo

Though his reputation preceded him, I first met Ken Winchester, fittingly, in a winery. Back in 2005 he was growing grapes and making wine at Vancouver Island’s only certified organic vineyard, at Saanich Peninsula’s Barking Dog Winery. Welcoming, travelled, and unpretentiously smart, he became a quick and easy friend, and was an early advocate for drinking and supporting local.

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Balancing Act

Simon Ogden encourages his customers to put their drinks in his hands

Bartender Simon Ogden. Supplied photo.

Balance. Whether it’s blending the elements of the perfect cocktail or juggling work and play, balance is key.

It’s a philosophy bartender Simon Ogden takes to heart, both behind the bar and in life.

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Sheringham Distillery

Jason MacIsaac was a successful chef before he turned distiller, and he brings his local, sustainable attitude toward food to his small batch spirits.

2631 Seaside Dr., Shirley
778.528.1313
SheringhamDistillery.com

Read more about Sheringham Distillery:

Recipe: Sheringham Cherub

Sheringham takes on the world

Zero-Sum Game: Don’t call them mocktails: #spiritfree and #placebo drinks are a growing wellness trend

Island Time: For the third year in a row a B.C. distillery has won the Canadian Artisan Spirit of the Year—and for the second time, it’s Sheringham Distillery on Vancouver Island.

Ginned up: The evolution of terroir-driven made-in-B.C. gin

Recipe: Locals Only Negroni

It’s G&T time: The Alchemist’s tasting panel searches for the best B.C. gin to enjoy with your tonic

Recipe: Ambrosia

Canada’s best artisan spirits announced: Sheringham Akvavit named Canadian Artisan Spirit of the Year

Star Anise: How a Scandinavian classic is warming hearts in B.C.

Recipe: Don’t call me Shirley!

Recipe: Bring out the Gimlet

Recipe: Local Negroni

A matter of taste: At Sheringham Distillery, Jason MacIsaac brings a chef’s palate to the still


PRODUCTS:

• Kazuki Gin
• Seaside Gin
• Akvavit
• Vodka
• Coffee Liqueur
• Lumette! zero-proof gin


TASTING NOTES:


Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Floral, with white pepper nose.
FLAVOUR: Light, slightly sweet.
FEEL: Well balanced, thin finish.
FINISH: Tad bit of tropical fruit, very pleasant.
BEST ENJOYED: On the rocks, lemon twist.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Pleasing, great packaging, good Martini vodka. —Shaun Layton, July 2016


Akvavit

FRAGRANCE: Citrus and anise.
FLAVOUR: Spicy caraway.
FEEL: Oily and mouth-coating. 
FINISH: Sweet and warming. Long.
BEST ENJOYED: As an aperitif before a good meal, especially fish.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A beautiful medley of botanicals that sing in perfect harmony. A great twist on the Scandinavian spirit. —Robyn Gray, October 2016


Dark Chocolate Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Cocoa nibs and raw bitter chocolate.
FLAVOUR: Real, proper crushed cocoa.
FEEL: Lean. More booze than sugar.
FINISH: Long and even.
BEST ENJOYED: An a well made chocolate Martini — spirit forward and not overly sweet. 
THE BOTTOM LINE: A refreshing alternative to all of the sickly sweet chocolate products available in our market. —Josh Pape, February 2017


Seaside Gin

FRAGRANCE: Fragrant, floral, damp wild flowers, seaside walks.
FLAVOUR: A bit savoury, piney juniper notes, candied violets, wild elderflower.
FEEL: Very balanced, great viscosity.
FINISH: Danky, savoury, pleasant briny finish.
BEST ENJOYED: This gin screams G&T or a citrus forward cocktail. Works great with shrubs. 
THE BOTTOM LINE: A phenomenal gin, not for Martinis, but for mixed drinks. One of the best in BC, buy now! —Shaun Layton, July 2017


Barrel-Aged Seaside Gin

FRAGRANCE: Salty and briney, mild citrus.
FLAVOUR: Citrusy, mostly lemon. Some juniper and savoury notes.
FEEL: Mouth-coating. Very pleasant.
FINISH: Lengthy, with more of the savoury botanicals sticking around.
BEST ENJOYED: Cold with lemon zest.
THE BOTTOM LINE: I can typically take or leave oak-aged gins; this one is interesting and worth a chance. —Trevor Kallies, October 2017


Shelter Point Distillery

Self-described “farmpreneur” Patrick Evans and family established a distillery on their 380-acre farm near Campbell River, growing their own barley for their single-malt whisky and vodka.

4650 Regent Rd, Campbell River
778-420-2200
ShelterPoint.ca

Read more about Shelter Point Distillery:

A decade of great Canadian Whisky: B.C. distillers scored big at the 10th annual Canadian Whisky Awards in Victoria last night.

Ginned up: The evolution of terroir-driven made-in-B.C. gin

Farm to flask: Artisan distilling started a conversation about the terroir of spirits. But can you taste those uber-local ingredients in the bottle?

Whisky in the jar: After five long years, Shelter Point’s single malt has come of age

Recipe: Four-Winds-of-Change

 


PRODUCTS:

• Shelter Point Single Malt Artisanal Whisky
• Shelter Point The Collective Whisky
• Shelter Point Taste The Grainbow Single Cask Whisky
• Canada One Artisanal Vodka
• Hand-Foraged Botanical Gin
• Sunshine Liqueur


TASTING NOTES:


Yo! Off the Wall Spiced Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Cinnamon.
FLAVOUR: Barley sweetness and cinnamon spice.
FEEL: Clean and smooth.
FINISH: Residual sweetness and tickling spice.
BEST ENJOYED: In a highball with an artisanal cola.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Barley spirit makes this nicely balanced vodka easy-going. —Robyn Gray, April 2016


Shelter Point Single Malt Whisky

FRAGRANCE: Mild grain, little citrus and oak.
FLAVOUR: Slight hint of spice, fruit sweetness and a hint of chocolate.
FEEL: Smooth and silky.
FINISH: Medium long, grain lingers and is very pleasant.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat or rocks; you’ll be fine either way.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Balanced and delicious. Easily mistaken for a more established distillery.
This is a good buy.
 —Trevor Kallies, July 2016


Canada One Artisan Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Quite neutral. Very clean, a hint of spring flowers.
FLAVOUR: Heaps of anise, black pepper, mace.
FEEL: Buttery feel, in a great way.
FINISH: Coriander and black pepper, long, pleasant finish.
BEST ENJOYED: Very cold and crisp classic Martini, no garnish.
THE BOTTOM LINE: This one was a real surprise; thumbs up! —Shaun Layton, October 2016


Barrel of Sunshine Liqueur

FRAGRANCE: Quince, orange marmalade, maple custard, mulled wine.
FLAVOUR: Tarte Tatin in an ISO glass! Quince, apple cider, candied orange.
FEEL: A little thick, but for what it is very pleasant.
FINISH: Christmas spices, citrus explosion.
BEST ENJOYED: In a Sidecar or Brandy Crusta. Or with soft cheese and fruit preserves after dinner.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A great addition to any back bar. —Shaun Layton, July 2017


Double Barrelled Single Malt Whisky

FRAGRANCE: Caramel and cacao.
FLAVOUR: Pronounced alcohol with baking spices.
FEEL: Light and astringent.
FINISH: Lasting toffee warmth.
BEST ENJOYED: In a Rob Roy.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Baking spice flavours play amazingly with sweet vermouth. —Robyn Gray, October 2017


 

Arbutus Distillery

Head distiller Michael Pizzitelli brings both a background in science and his experience in brewing to Arbutus Distillery’s ever-growing range of botanical-forward spirits.

1890 Boxwood Rd., Nanaimo
250-714-0027

Arbutus-Distillery.com

Read more about Arbutus Distilliery:

Return of the green fairy: The spirit that supposedly drove a generation of French artists mad is back in B.C., where distillers are reinventing absinthe

Recipe: Bohemian Mule

Ginned up: The evolution of terroir-driven made-in-B.C. gin


PRODUCTS:

• Coven Vodka
• Owl’s Screech Vodka
• Empiric Gin
• Blue Gin
• Forest Dweller Gin
• Baba Yaga Absinthe
• Grand Visco Brandy
• Vanilla Liqueur
• Birch Liqueur
• Lavender Liqueur
• Amaro
• Canadian Single Malt Whisky


TASTING NOTES:


Coven Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Very little alcohol vapour, mild caramel and vanilla.
FLAVOUR: Dark caramel, toast.
FEEL: Creamy.
FINISH: Long finish of dark toast and caramel.
BEST ENJOYED: Martini or mixed drinks.
THE BOTTOM LINE: With the strong vanilla caramel notes, citrus isn’t the way to go with this one. I’d be interested to see it in an Espresso Martini. 
—Trevor Kallies, July 2016


Juniperus Lupulus

FRAGRANCE: Forest and wood.
FLAVOUR: Extremely rustic.
FEEL: Quite soft.
FINISH: Slight sweetness on the finish.
BEST ENJOYED: Not your usual gin. Could add a rustic twist to a Negroni or work well for a Dirty Martini.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Very unusual and unexpected. The wet hops and aged oak add really intense flavours some may find overpowering in a gin.
 —Wendy McGuinness, October 2016


Espresso Infused Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Coffee! Roasted beans. 
FLAVOUR: Not overly sweet. Tastes like cold brew.
FEEL: Better than other products — less thick/rich/cloying.
FINISH: Pleasant. Some sugar but not out of control.
BEST ENJOYED: Really cold. Maybe over ice, but dilution isn’t necessary.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Excellent product. If you want an espresso-flavoured spirit, this is worth a shot. —Josh Pape, February 2017


Baba Yaga Genuine Absinthe

FRAGRANCE: Fennel, licorice, citrus.
FLAVOUR: Dash of water, fresh citrus and tons of anise.
FEEL: Medium to full body.
FINISH: Long, hot, super delicious.
BEST ENJOYED: Neat or with a dash of water. A fantastic rinse for your Sazerac.
THE BOTTOM LINE: A very enjoyable absinthe. But be careful! –Scott Barber, June 2017


Empiric Gin

FRAGRANCE: Full of juniper and lemony citrus aromas.
FLAVOUR: Lemon with a touch of coriander, moving into juniper.
FEEL: Thin, slightly oily. Some heat on the back end.
FINISH: All juniper with the other botanicals taking a step back.
BEST ENJOYED: Some playful Gin & Tonic opportunities here.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Not a bad addition to the gin shelf. —Trevor Kallies, October 2017


Ampersand Distilling Co.

Father and son, Stephen and Jeremy Schacht, hand craft their spirits on five acres of organic farmland in the Cowichan Valley, distilling their gin and vodka from B.C. wheat.

4077 Lanchaster Rd., Duncan
250-737-1880
AmpersandDistilling.com

Read more about Ampersand Distilling Co.:

Demystifying vermouth: The Alchemist tasting panel samples the fortified, aromatized elixir

Bitter & Sweet: Why you should be drinking vermouth made in B.C.

Recipe: Ampersand Martini

Raise a glass to World Gin Day

It’s G&T time: The Alchemist tasting panel searches for the best B.C. gin to enjoy with your tonic

 


 PRODUCTS:

• Per Se Vodka
• Ampersand Gin
• Imperative Dry Vermouth
• Nocino!


 TASTING NOTES:


ampersand ginAmpersand Gin

FRAGRANCE: Juniper and coriander.
FLAVOUR: Juniper forward, floral, spiced finish.
FEEL: Medium to high viscosity.
FINISH: White pepper spice.
BEST ENJOYED: In a Gibson Martini.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Great value. Mix in citrusy drinks or a classic Martini. 
–Shaun Layton, July 2016


Per Se Vodka

FRAGRANCE: Light and creamy, almost vanilla.
FLAVOUR: Same, familiar creamy, semi-sweetness of a wheat vodka.
FEEL: Mildly mouth coating and pleasant.
FINISH: A little heat on the back, but easy to sip neat and at room temperature.
BEST ENJOYED: Chilled with not much else. Martini bound!
THE BOTTOM LINE: Not surprised it was voted B.C.’s best vodka two years running. –Trevor Kallies, October 2017